Think wine and Latin foods don't mix? Think Latino consumers don't drink wine? Think again. According to the Adams Wine Handbook, 22 percent of Hispanics drank wine in 2003, up from 11 percent in 1998. And 2004 saw a 31 percent increase in wine consumption among Hispanics compared to 11 percent among non-Hispanics, the Wine Market Council reports.
As flavors from Mexico, South America and other Latin countries influence the American palate, more non-Hispanic consumers are washing that fare down with wine, too.
What does this mean for restaurateurs who serve Mexican and other Latin food? It means wine companies and distributors want to expand into this growing market niche, and are looking at on-premise establishments to help with their outreach to consumers.
It means now more than ever restaurateurs and bar managers should develop a wine program that involves more than just stocking wine. A successful program must include staff training (making sure everyone has a basic understanding of the wine/Latin culture connection) and an integrated marketing plan — things that will distinguish you from your competitors and add a revenue source to your bar tab.
Vitis Vinifera, the European wine grape, made its way to Chile in the 1550s. By the early 19th century, Chilean producers were free of Spanish rule and winemakers became gentlemen farmers of the day. A Frenchman, Claudio Gay, persuaded the Chilean government in the 1830s to establish an experimental nursery where Chileans housed a range of vinifera cuttings. It was the beginning of modern Chilean winemaking.
In 1769, six years before the American Revolution, Padre Junípero Serra brought vine cuttings to California from Mexico. When the Sonoma Mission was abandoned in 1834, Mexican General Mariano Guadalupe Vallejo took over its vineyard and became Sonoma's first commercial winegrower.
"Count" Agoston Haraszthy purchased a vineyard originally established by General Vallejo's brother, Salvador. Haraszthy later renamed the property Buena Vista, which today remains a leading wine producer. Mission vines planted in 1838 by George Calvert Yount (founder of Napa Valley's Yountville) are from General Mariano Vallejo's Sonoma vineyard.
Lucy Pizarro, owner of Chapala Restaurant Pizarro in Salinas, Calif., started a wine program three years ago. "I love wine to begin with, but I didn't have a wine education," she admits. To solve the problem, she called on the flavor experts she trusted most — her customers. She asked them which wines they liked best and began to incorporate those varietals on a wine list.
Today Chapala Restaurant wine sales are 21 percent of total alcohol sales compared to 10 percent last year. "Sales are increasing every day. By mid-year we were already at 17 percent wine sales," she says. "Customers are looking for something different, a new experience, something more than margaritas. They want variety in drinks. And wine creates an experience they remember."
To create memories, Pizarro has developed a 21-bottle wine list that focuses on Monterey County producers. All of the vintages are available in single bottles or wine-by-the-glass offerings. Among the wines are six Chardonnays, four Cabernets, three Merlots and three Pinot Noirs. Her suggestion to others not yet on the wine bandwagon? "You are missing out on a lot of sales," she cautions.
Though wine can create additional sales, there are some challenges. Training staff is the most common.
Some customers may be wine connoisseurs when they walk through your door, but your staff should be ready for those who are not. Educating clients, after all, is the biggest sales push any restaurant can make.
A well-trained staff is key to communicating wine options to customers because wine-savvy employees sell more. Educated employees can make credible wine suggestions that consumers feel confident in accepting.
"Customers may not initially think of ordering wine with their meal, but our knowledgeable staff is able to make wine suggestions and turn that suggestion into a sale," Tim Wilson, corporate beverage director of New York City's Dos Caminos Restaurants, states.
The staff knowledge comes from Dos Caminos' "Wine College" which trains its entire service staff, along with those of other sister BR Guest restaurants. Wine College is open to all new servers and covers all wine basics and wine-producing regions. Dos Caminos employees then focus on pairing Latin food and flavors with wine. Staff members are also included in winemaker dinners and distributor tastings.
Price points are also a consideration for increased wine sales. Wines need to be priced appropriately for the other menu costs and clientele. "In order to increase wine sales we had to make our wine list more attractive to customers by offering more familiar wines, and mid-range prices," explains Nathan Koval of Los Angeles' Border Grill. "What this does is make the customer more willing to try wine with their meal, as the risk is not a high-price loss."
Koval also created his list based on value and regions familiar to customers, mostly wines from California, Mexico and South America. Border Grill's wine-by-the-glass program offers eight selections. The result is a more effective program, with 80 percent of wine sales from the glass versus 20 percent bottle sales, Koval says.
An Argentinean Chardonnay "by far outsells any other wine we offer," Koval reports. Other popular wines-by-the-glass include a Spanish Rioja Reserva, a white Rioja, a standard California Merlot and an Argentinean Malbec. The latter is especially good with the many red meat dishes Border Grill sells, he says. Interestingly, Koval says sweet wines like Rieslings — which pair better than Chardonnays with spicy foods — don't sell well enough to warrant offering them by the glass. "Sweeter wines are best with chiles because the sweetness counteracts the heat. But it is a big challenge to get customers to order them," Koval explains. "It's our wine-knowlegeable customers who order them the most."
Winemaker dinners are increasingly popular events that offer value with a culinary educational component. "Winemaker dinners are fun and a boost for long-term sales," Pizarro says. Considering she works with local wine producers, Pizarro can get winemakers to visit her restaurant. Distributors also can help restaurants create a wine and food pairing program, get the winemaker to the event and assist in marketing to customers.
Though the perceived value to your customer is higher with this type of program, the profit margin may be a bit lower for your restaurant. What the establishment really gains is positive public relations. Having a winemaker or knowledgeable wine rep attend the event boosts your image, which can lead to future sales. Distributors and wineries are now more than ever willing to partner with Latin food restaurants to educate staff and help them conduct active promotions and wine programs that create a complete wine and food experience for the consumer.
Serving wine with Latino foods is gaining ground at Mexican and other Latin-themed restaurants nationwide. And while it might seem a bit tricky at first, pairing ethnic dishes with wine is not as complicated as you might think! The secret? Focus on the sauces and ingredients with which the food is prepared, rather than automatically following theÊstandard red meat with red wine, fish with white wine rule, according to food and wine expert Sandra Gonzalez, founder of VinoconVida.com.
Other wine experts agree. "With a lot of different foods that come from around the world, some of the best wines are Riesling and Austrian Gruner Veltliner," offers Bo Thompson of San Francisco's Ferry Plaza Wine Merchant. "They are really clean, crisp and dry and have a spiciness and minerality that complements the kinds of foods you're talking about.
"I would stay away from any wines with oak tones. Oak and heat don't seem to go well together," he adds.
Gonzalez suggests trying the following pairings:
Chicken Mole and Syrah or Champagne — The red varietal, syrah, complements the sauce as chocolate, cinnamon and cloves are typical flavors of the wine and dish ingredients. Because of mole's chile factor, syrah is sturdy enough to stand up to the savory heat, yet fruity enough not to add to it.ÊIronically, Champagne can also be a match for mole.ÊThe crisp, juicyÊeffervescence cleanses the palate of chocolate and spice.
Smoked Trout Quesadilla with Sauvignon Blanc or Champagne — This upscale appetizer includes fresh dill, roasted red peppers and creamy havarti cheese. Both Champagne/sparkling wine and Sauvignon blanc are great matches. A dry Champagne balances the creamy, salty cheese and trout's smokiness. Sauvignon blanc plays off the herbaceous ingredients and roasted bell peppers.
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