With an increasing number of health-conscious customers finally heeding diet warnings doctors have given for years, the time to convert Mexican menus is now.
At Salsas y Son Restaurants in Santa Fe and Los Alamos, N.M., chef-owner Raul Rodriguez recently took the first step toward serving healthier Hispanic cuisine: In March, he switched from a trans fat-laden vegetable oil to a zero trans fat corn-canola oil blend that "gave a cleaner taste to the sopaipillas. It didn't add an oily flavor, it kept the flavor of the sopaipillas." He hasn't converted entirely to trans fat-free cooking, but says he eventually might since his experiment is going well so far.
Experts, in fact, say replacing hydrogenated or partially hydrogenated vegetable shortenings or margarines with any of the zero trans fat oils on the market is a good way to make even fried foods like sopaipillas, tortilla chips, empanadas, chiles rellenos and chimichangas less greasy and, ultimately, healthier menu choices.
The push to trans fat-free cooking is more than just a fad: It's first and foremost a response to medical professionals' findings.
The Institute of Medicine, National Academies of Science reported that trans fatty acids increase LDL (bad) cholesterol and increase the risk of coronary heart disease by promoting plaque build-up in the arteries. Other researchers suspect trans fats may trigger Type 2 diabetes (a big concern among the Hispanic population).
Concern for his patrons, in fact, is what drove Rodriguez to jump on the zero trans fat bandwagon. He realizes, he says, that if statistics hold true, one of four Salsas y Son customers may have diabetes, high blood pressure or high cholesterol.
The anti-trans fat movement has also been prompted by the Food and Drug Administration's Trans Fat Labeling Regulation that took effect in January 2006. While the rule requires only manufacturers of processed food — not restaurants — to list trans fat content on their labels, ripples are being felt in the foodservice industry.
The Center for Science in the Public Interest has filed a legal petition asking the FDA to require restaurants that use partially hydrogenated oils to place notices on menus or signs in their establishments. Two-thirds of Americans surveyed think restaurants should indicate whether their food contains trans fat, the petition says.
An ongoing lawsuit against McDonald's proves the move to make restaurants comply with labeling regulations has teeth: The hamburger giant is being sued in California for breaking its promise, made in 2002, to switch to healthier, lower-trans fat oil.
To meet the challenge to reduce menu items laden with trans fats, chefs can inventory items that don't list hydrogenated or partially hydrogenated items on the label. Carefully read the nutrition labels on the frying oils you currently use, and on any crackers, cookies, snack foods and other prepared products that might contain the unhealthy oils, experts advise. Choosing oils with high monounsaturated fats is a good idea because they have been proven to increase the "good" HDL cholesterol and decrease the "bad" LDL cholesterol readings in the bloodstream.
The switch could have another benefit, too: Some operators claim higher-quality, higher-cost, zero trans fat oils can last up to one week longer in the fryers.
The shortening monitoring strips on the market today also can help extend a frying oil's life. The strips react to oil, changing color to indicate the buildup of free fatty acids. The operator knows when the oil is still good and when it needs changing, not by the calendar but from actual measurements.
At Salsas y Son, Rodriguez posted a "shortening monitoring" wall chart that lets his cooks compare the monitoring strips with the chart to see if the oil is still usable. It's a step several fast food chains have adopted to assure good quality without oil waste.
In the end, it's all about making Hispanic food healthier while pleasing patrons, Rodriguez notes. "The new oil costs a little bit more," he says. "But I think it will pay off in different ways."
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