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El Restaurante Mexicano
El Restaurante Mexicano
Jan-Feb 2005


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TapasTapas platter from Masa Restaurant
Accent on appetizers


©2005 Maiden Name Press LLC

Join the ranks of restaurateurs who have stopped sweating the small stuff and started selling it! Turn tempting tidbits into amazing aperitivos. Try audacious antojitos to lure a sophisticated crowd. Tout inexpensive Mexican appetizers as companions to pricey drinks to boost bar sales.

The reasons for offering them are as varied as the choices popping up on menus nationwide. Restaurant owners should define their operations before jumping on the bocaditos bandwagon, Jonathan Locke, owner of Food Sense, a restaurant consulting firm in Minneapolis, Minn., urges.

"It is important that you know who you are, from the inside point of view, as well as who your customers think you are," says Locke. "That's a question that should be answered before making any changes."

There are two primary reasons for offering appetizers, Locke notes. One is to drive traffic (a step that typically involves happy hours, or other special promotions such as Hispanic holiday menus and cultural tie-ins), to draw customers on off nights. The other is to increase sales in a category. While appetizers alone may not be extremely lucrative, they can generate hefty revenues when teamed with alcoholic beverages, Locke says.

"It is important to know how to pair appetizers and alcohol. A cool, spicy flan with nopales and three kinds of peppers served as a fancy appetizer for $7 can improve your status, but couple it with añejo tequila at $9 a shot, and you've really got something," he says, adding that many liquor companies will help with promotional costs of co-branding.

The Food Sense consultant has witnessed a growing trend of young, unmarried professionals—recent college graduates—who gather in restaurants to graze and socialize.

"It's a very interesting phenomenon, with an increasing level of sophistication. You can make a substantial amount of revenue serving interesting appetizers [to these kinds of customers]. We're seeing a slow resurgence of fondue in some of the tonier Mexican restaurants, and a lot of fusion kind of stuff in restaurants like Chino Latino," he reports.

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Pavo Quesadilla
Pavo Quesadilla
Trend-setting starters

Indeed, Chino Latino, a popular fusion restaurant in artsy downtown Mineappolis, caters to a chic crowd. Diners here feast on Hispanic and Asian dishes, with an emphasis on the hot and spicy. The menu features a tapas-style "Little Dishes to Share" section with items priced from $4 to $9. A few Latin faves include the Tostada de Tinga (smoky, spicy chicken on crispy tostadas with queso fresco, sour cream, and shredded lettuce); Queso Fundido (bubbling hot cheese with sautéed mushrooms, chile de arbol and chips); and Empanada de Janeiro (three Brazilian-style empanadas stuffed with ground beef, olives and hearts of palm).

Evidence suggests appetizers have appeal, not only as starters, but frequently as the main course. Food Beat, a Wheaton, Illinois-based business that tracks restaurant menus and sales trends, reports the fastest-growing style of appetizer is a "shared plate" or combo/sampler platter, also called tapas.

Colibri Mexican Bistro in San Francisco, with its vintage Mexican decor, tempting tapas, and select tequilas, beers and wines, seeks to replicate the atmosphere of Mexico City's cantinas. Alex Padilla, executive chef and co-owner, hails from Honduras. His creative genius is manifest in the bistro's appetizer offerings that include the Chile Ancho, an ancho pepper stuffed with goat cheese and roasted almonds that sells for $9, and the Queso Horneado en Hoja de Plátano ($7), which is Panela cheese baked with spices and wrapped in a banana leaf. Padilla is pleased his new grilled cactus leaves marinated with oregano, olive oil, garlic, guajillo oil and roasted portobello mushrooms is a hit.

Executive Chef/Owner Philip Aviles of Boston's Masa Restaurant (dubbed the place "where the South End meets the Southwest") insists appetizers are an integral part of his restaurant's success. No wonder with dynamic delicacies like Tequila-Roasted New England Mussels with tomatoes and chile, which capitalizes on local seafood.

"Appetizers are not only money-makers, but also an amenity," Aviles suggests. "People come in and order several items, along with a drink. We have tapas like Grilled Chorizo and Cranberry Chutney Salsa and Crispy Calamari and Avocado Wasabi. The wasabi is quite intense. People like it." Customers can order items individually for $1 per tapa, or select a combo platter for $10. The combo platter with a pitcher of sangría is $15.

"We teach our staff to sell them that way. Most of our customers share two or three tapas and then move into the dining room for dinner," Avila says.

Aviles says the costs of developing cool nibbles like his Ahi Tuna Ceviche Taco can be kept down with a little imagination. Many appetizers, he says, are created from foods readily available in the kitchen, such as the trimmings from filet mignon which can be skewered or used as a savory filling for sensational snacks.

The tapas concept has benefits beyond increasing bar sales, the chef suggests.

"We instituted the tapas to keep our restaurant changing. Also, it keeps the place full. People walk by and see others milling around and socializing in the bar area. It creates energy," Avila observes.

The strategy has helped the restaurant stay on top of its game, despite the emergence of several neighboring competitors since Masa opened five years ago.

Gabriela's Restaurant, with two locations in New York City, has taken such traditional street foods as taquitos to new heights with creative fillings like vinegary roast pork, pineapple, cilantro and onions or chile ancho chicken. General Manager Carlos Zaras says restaurants that don't offer creative appetizers are missing out.

"Appetizers are designed to make hungry people even hungrier, and they do," he notes. "They give them a small sample of what to expect from our main menu."

Not only are Gabriela's aperitivos flavorful, they're festive as well.

"Our Tricolor Berenjena is eggplant stuffed with Chihuahua cheese and spinach topped with tomato sauce. The eggplant is battered and folded in such a way that you see the three colors. It looks like the Mexican flag," he says.

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